A wild surfing teacher appears

August 17, 2022

Tuesday, I was walking on the beach with a friend. We were watching surfers, having a fun conversation and just a great time. A gentleman in board shorts and a rash guard approached and politely interrupted. He asked, “Hey - you guys want to learn to surf?”.

The question made sense for the area not only from the existence of the surfers but also the numerous surfing schools. There was a bit of a language barrier, but I was able to inquire which school was his. He said none, no school.

Good enough for me. I took Ernesto’s information, messaged him that evening and scheduled a lesson for the next morning.

Ernesto was ready at 8 AM with his board and two other, longer boards.

Ernesto started instruction with one of the long boards laying on the beach. He demonstrated the body positioning points of interest on the board. He had us repeat the body positioning steps multiple times. Each time, he presented us with clear feedback on what to alter with our positions. Within ~4 iterations each, about 15-20 minutes, we were paddling out.

Once out, he helped us understand the queuing mechanism for which surfers go when, and how to slot back into the queue. He then worked with us one at a time.

Once one of us was staged, Ernesto had us focus on our destination; looking forward where we wanted to go. Ernesto, holding the back of the board, focused on the approaching waves and the surfers behind us. He’d announce when a wave of interest was approaching and then say “paddle, paddle, paddle!”.

I would feel the swell approach from behind, the rear of the board rising, and before I knew it, I was speeding down the wave, pushing my torso up, moving my left foot forward bringing my right foot into position, releasing my grip from the side of the board and pushing my body up.

I had caught the first wave I attempted. There was an immediate feeling of confidence from the success. After some time, I fell from the board with the grace of a cartoon walking on a banana.

I recovered my board, paddled to the back of the queue and watched my friend experience the same success. Witnessing my friend’s success drove my happiness and confidence even more.

Ernesto waved me in from my queued position to his location. He gave a single piece of feedback - keep my body lower, less rigid. Ernesto, knowing there would be some time before the next wave, instructed me to sit up and relax on the board. I sat up, relaxed, and watched the other surfers and surfer students.

Ernesto then indicated the wave after the one coming up was mine. I laid down on the board and kept his feedback in my head - don’t be so rigid. I had some anxiety on if I was focusing on the feedback more than the overall task at hand. My confidence from the previous success won out, while still letting the feedback co-exist in my mind. He said, “paddle, paddle, paddle!”. I launched again and caught another wave. This time I stayed low to the board as the speed built up. I felt faster and more control. A surfer fell a good distance ahead of me and had enough wits to steer a bit to the left. I avoided the person, kept forward motion, and eventually fell off to the left; my balance not regained but still successful on catching a wave.

Repeating the process; I moved to the back of the queue, waited, watched others, and watched my friend. Ernesto waved me over to stage for another wave. He also repeated the process, single piece of feedback, and then announcing “paddle, paddle, paddle!”. Another success with more distance and stability.

On my paddle to the back of the queue, I was able to see how Ernesto was working with my friend. Behind the scenes, he was providing stability, holding the board direction, making minor adjustments. The wave approached, my friend begin to paddle, his board lifted, and then I saw Ernesto shove the board down the wave - giving it a burst of speed. Before that, I had thought the speed was from the wave alone.

We caught 5 or 6 waves that day over the course of maybe an hour and a half. I ate it on my last wave with some decent air time. Looking back on Ernesto’s teaching, I witnessed very positive teaching skills.

On time

Ernesto was where he said he would be when he said he would be.

Demonstrate knowledge

On stages of competence, I think I have ‘Conscious Incompetence’. I know I don’t know how to surf, and I recognize the deficit. Ernesto has Unconscious Competence. He can simultaneously float on his board, focus on the environment, and teach with applied knowledge.

Institutional knowledge

He shared process knowledge, how to queue with other surfers.

Specific, actionable, limited feedback

Each iteration, he focused on a single feedback item that had a positive impact to outcomes.

Minimize noise and inputs

The other surfers, which wave to choose, was all removed from my mental overhead. My only focus was on the goals. Learning more, building confidence, and having fun.

Silently support

Ernesto did not say he would be shoving the board down the wave. He gave us what we needed for success in the background.

Ernesto is a great teacher. I can’t wait to surf with him tomorrow.

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